- Disclosure: I was hosted as a guest of Banff/ Lake Louise Tourism and the Fairmont Banff Springs Hotel. No monetary compensation was provided, but hotel and meals were provided.
The tendency, I think, is to lump quaint mountain towns all into the same category, as if they’re pretty much all the same. Alberta’s 2 National Park towns, Jasper and Banff, are quite different though, and a visit to each yields a much different experience.
While Jasper is great for those looking for a slower pace and the feel of years gone by, Banff feels much more vibrant and energetic, at least in the town centre.
The Fairmont Banff Springs – One of My Bucket List Hotels
I’ve stayed at a number of the old CP Hotels that are now Fairmont hotels, but this was my first experience at the Banff Springs.
This hotel is freaking amazing.
I mean, yeah, my room was small, but the rest of the hotel is so beautiful that you don’t really want to spend your time in the room anyway. Plus, the view makes up for it in spades.
Breakfast all weekend was supplied by STOCK Food and Drink, the casual breakfast/lunch spot in the lobby of the Fairmont Banff Springs Hotel. Now normally I’m not excited to eat in a hotel cafe, but I’m here to tell you that STOCK served me 3 of the most satisfying breakfasts I’ve had in recent memory.
The Lamb Tagine was a spicy delight to start my first morning.
The second morning’s Steak and Eggs upped the bar even more, with it’s tender shaved beef, horseradish cream, arugula, and a fried egg atop a perfect slice of house-made toasted bread. The side of roasted tomatoes was a wonderful and smart addition on the side.
My last morning required a to-go breakfast I could take on the road, and the breakfast BLT similarly didn’t disappoint. The bread program here is outstanding.
I expected the prices here, given that STOCK is in an upscale hotel, to be much higher. I was happy to find that my priciest breakfast was $17, which for a high quality and filling breakfast in a mountain resort town is quite a good value. There’s an obvious commitment to cooking from scratch here, and I’m looking forward to more breakfasts at STOCK on my next visit to Banff.
Later that day we got a short behind-the-scenes tour of the kitchens at the Fairmont Banff Springs. With 13 kitchens making darn near everything in-house, I couldn’t help thinking this would be a fantastic place for a young apprentice to start out. You would get a wide range of skills, and working under a chef with a commitment to cooking from scratch and sourcing sustainable and local ingredients like Chef Foster has, young chefs would build a lot of great habits with which to build a career from.
The Fairmont Banff Springs’ flagship restaurant, The Vermillion Room, was still under a big renovation while we were there (scheduled to open within weeks), but we got to preview a few menu items anyway. The Bison Bourguignon was very rich and full of meaty flavour, which is to say it was perfect. The portion size, as you can see, is impressive too.
After heading upstairs to Grapes Charcuterie Bar, the hotel’s wine-focused restaurant, and having a delicious cheese fondue and charcuterie, I can confidently say this is overall the best food I’ve had at a Fairmont Hotel anywhere. Add to that the outstanding views from almost any window or patio, and the Banff Springs is an impressive place to stay.
Plus, there are cocktails with a view from pretty much every window.
Banff – More Than an Iconic Hotel
Once you manage to tear yourself away from the luxury of the Banff Springs, Banff has plenty more to offer.
One of Banff’s strengths is definitely the dining options, and The Bison didn’t disappoint. I loved the restaurant’s take on the French 75 cocktail, replacing the classic gin with Eau Clare Distillery’s prickly pear Equinox. That’s a great summer drink right there.
As for the food, The Bison has a nice mix of vegetable dishes for appetizers, but vegetarians would be in tough when it comes to entrees. Meat eaters get a good variety of Canadian proteins such as Elk Tartare, Alberta Striploin, Bow River Trout, and a Bison Short Rib.
I had the Bison Short Rib and it hit the spot. The sweet rooftop patio also hit the spot.
If you’re looking for a quiet getaway with the ultimate cosy-cabin-feel, Storm Mountain Lodge might be just what the Doctor ordered. We dropped in for lunch, and I was immediately wowed by the beautifully rustic elegance of the lodges common area. It’s like a micro version of the Jasper Park Lodge, which is one of my favourite places. Private cabins with wood burning fireplaces, some damn fine food at the Storm Mountain Lodge restaurant, and copious amounts of peace and quiet. I could vanquish a lot of stress here.
Of course, Banff isn’t all beautiful hotels and tasty grub… there’s also some great hiking and scenery to be experienced.
A 10-minute walk from the Banff Springs is Bow Falls. There’s a fairly easy hike along the river providing some beautiful photo opportunities.
I also ventured across the river to Surprise Corner and hiked down from the parking lot. The hike here can be a little more challenging, and the paths can get aggressive in spots. If you’re able to make the trek, it’s well worth the effort. There are beautiful views across to the Banff Springs from here, and it’s easy to forget you’re in the middle of a bustling town. I much preferred this side of the river.
Cochon555
With a handle like Baconhound, you could say that the Cochon555 festival is pretty on-brand. The festival, pairing 5 chefs with 5 heritage breed pigs and 5 winemakers, made it’s only Canadian stop on the tour, and the Banff Springs was happy to host the event.
The participating chefs were tasked to use as much of the pig they were given as possible to create dishes that showcase all parts of the animal. The chefs are urged to think outside the box, and of course with creativity comes the opportunity to fail, though most of the dishes this night were memorable for the right reasons.
One such dish was the Smoked Lardo Potato Emulsion with cultured sausage, fennel, and fermented red fife from Chef Matthius Fong of The River Cafe in Calgary. This dish, though not much to look at, played like the best version of Shepherd’s Pie you could imagine, and had me salivating at the thought of a second helping. If this ever makes it to the menu at The River Cafe, I’ll be en route in my car tout de suite.
Though Chef Fong made my personal favourite dish of the night, Chef Foster from the Banff Springs rolled out a stunning array of dishes that utilized his whole hog to the fullest. His Pork Tamale, Scotch Egg, and pop tart with back fat pastry, maple bourbon glaze, and triple smoked bacon were all outstanding.
Through a combination of scoring from a panel of esteemed judges and votes from the event attendees, Chef Foster was given the well-deserved win.
The event itself was quite a fun experience, with plenty of food and drink stations besides the ones from the competing chefs. The chance to visit each competitors, and, if they’re not overwhelmingly busy, ask questions about what they’ve made. There was even a whole-hog butchery demo in front of the stage! Some of the pictures are quite graphic, but you can see them all, including photos from the entire evening here.
I also appreciated the focus on local craft beers and spirits, so if you’re not a wine drinker you’re not doomed to designated driver status. Not to worry, Banff has plenty of taxis.
The organizers and local partners are still deciding on the future of the event in Banff, but I hope they bring it back again. It was a worthwhile event, and anything that exposes the general public to great local producers is A.O.K. in my books.